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The Master Toymaker.
Buddy, can you spare a hide? Even if that bit of wisdom is true, it means that a whole bunch of us still have less than we would like to spend on toys. And whether that's because we are trying to feed six kids or are temporarily embarrassed because the yacht is in dry-dock with a thrown rod, there's a lot you can do on a tiny budget. Hell, maybe you are just greedy and want a wall of toys. Even if you have tons of money, there's nothing like waving around something that you made just for you, to your exact preferences. Expensive leather toys like floggers are really unsuited for shared play. So as a dominant, I much prefer to make toys that can be easily sterilized or which are inexpensive enough to simply leave with the sub as a memento mori - to be used the next time. There's even a little subtle competition involved in this... "Ah, Master FunkyDom made this? Hm. The throw isn't bad... but let's try mine!" And then, so many of us travel and not all of us are comfortable with asserting our sexuality with customs agents and airline security folks. Innocent looking toys are a big plus. So, here's the some contents of my traveling toy bag. * Roll of duct tape. What the heck can I do with all this? Odds are you have some ideas
too, but I'll trot mine out to share. Let's start with a simple toy. Make a hank of that macramé rope. Wrap several turns around your thumb and your elbow, like you were coiling an extension cord. Take the hank and pull it straight, take one end, uncoil it once, and start wrapping back until you can tuck the very end through the top loop. Tug to make it tight. You can actually use this toy just as it is, after trimming the other free tail. or you can cut through the loops and have a soft ended rope flogger that's mostly light and fluffy thud. Or you can get creative. For a purely vicious little toy, make one with a small number of "tails", four or five is about right. Cut the loops and knot the ends. Now, dip the finished result in liquid latex, work it throughout the fabric of the rope, squeeze out the excess and hang it up to dry overnight. The more tails, the more thud. The fewer tails, the more welts. Knots will leave nice little bruises. Delightful little toy, and tolerant of 10% bleach solution, although you should treat it in the same way as any other latex toy. Now try it using parcel twine. Something gentler? Cut an old shirt into even strips. Take three chopsticks and whittle them down to the length you prefer for a handle. Pinch the tails between the chopsticks and take a turn around each end with hockey tape. Dip the whole thing in the latex. Squeeze it out and hang it up to dry, making sure to check it occasionally and separate the tails as the latex dries. A hair dryer will speed the process considerably. Now, when the latex is still tacky, take some rope, twine or cloth and wrap the handle. Dip the handle and work out the latex. Let the whole thing dry. This will make quite a solid rubber flog and you'll be impressed by the "live" feel the bamboo chopsticks give the handle. You can use fishing weights to weight the handle if you like, it's a good idea to do that if you make a honkin' big mop flogger this way. Ok, let's get more creative.
Grab a chunk of plastic wrap and a rubber band and wrap the vibrator. This gives us something we can paint latex on, and of course it keeps goo out of the works. Now, take the modeling foam and mush it onto the vibe, so you cover that mushroom head about half-way. Remember, you want to be able to take it off afterwards, you might have a stiff neck. Once you have a cap of foam, you can add bits to make a general shape. Many little nubs, or a long probe shape, or a big thick dong... or whatever. Get creative, but don't fuss, the latex coating will hide fine details. Let the foam dry according to directions until it's about the consistency of a foam cup. Test it for vibration transmission. Ain't that astonishing? Now, dip or brush latex all over it. To do the best job, you really
want to brush on several thick coats, drying it in The result is a startlingly effective personal toy. Total cost, about
seven dollars, and perfectly designed for the target in question. You can make a mouth filling gag that is comfortable for reasonably prolonged wear, breathable and yet quite effective with the same technique. The advantage of the modeling foam is that you can line her mouth with plastic film, push in a bunch of foam and mold it to the shape you want. Mold it around a bundle of three plastic straws. so that her cheeks look right and her jaw is at the proper angle. Remove it to dry, brush it with latex, then cut the straws off and carefully add latex to coat any potential sharp edges. Several coats are better. It's best to reinforce the first layer with gauze strips, it's easiest to leave the straws in until before the last brush coats. Remember that the latex will increase the severity with the thickness, and thicker is better, so make sure the foam core is smaller than the finished gag you want. If you want something she can really chew on, take a thick cellulose
sponge and cut it to the shape desired. Stuff it in. Remember to moisten
it first. If you want a breather gag, take an ordinary cellulose sponge,
the thin square kind, and punch some holes in the narrow ends. Tie
it together with twine, so it makes a tube. Punch more holes in the
side for a rope to go through, tie it in back of her head and tell
her how much she looks like Daisy Duck.
Take your sub and wrap their arms to their torso with plastic wrap, making sure to emphasize the positive to the degree the party allows. Now, take gauze and dip it in the latex. Start applying. The gauze
will limit stretch, so the only way this comes off is to roll it off...
with help. Dry the latex until tacky with a hair dryer and repeat.
Get creative, use colorful scrap fabrics, bits of When you are finished, squirt it down with Armor-All, roll it up
your sub's torso to remove it, and spray the inside once you Duct tape is wonderful stuff. It comes in all colors, it's got great
tack and it's a favorite for improvisational bondage. Let's take a bondage hood, for example. Start with a latex bathing
cap and tuck her hair up under it. Cover her face with a If you intend her to be gagged when wearing the helmet, put the gag
in now, but without any gag strap. If you don't have a Start with a strip of tape that runs from the nape of the neck, around
over the mouth and back, nipping little triangles out of Run another strip down from the mouth to her throat, Now, take another strip that's long enough to just cover both her eyes and notch it deeply in the center to fit over the bridge of her nose. Run one more long strip from the side of her neck, just in front of her ear, across the top of her head, and down the other side. Take another strip of tape and run it up the back of her neck to just about the tops of her ears. Circle her neck with two layers of tape, to anchor everything firmly and fill in the the rest with overlapping short strips or shapes. This is where the second and third colors of tape come in handy. This will give you a total coverage helmet. And it's a scene in itself. After some moments or hours for recreation, take bandage shears and carefully slit the back of the helmet up to the level of her ears, to about an inch below where the reinforcing strip ends. Work the hood off, admire the glazed look in her eyes and put it aside for the moment. Ok, now that you have a free moment, take your shears and widen the slit evenly to about three quarters of an inch. Reinforce the edges and neck with strips of tape that wrap around to the inside. If you wish to make eyeholes, cut them out and reinforce them similarly, then cover the reinforcements with cut-out appliqués. Now, line the inside with more tape, being careful to avoid any wrinkles. Put grommets into the back of the helmet, add laces and call her back over.... If you are careful and take your time, you can create something as visually impressive as a three hundred dollar latex bondage helmet. And since you have built it right onto the individual, it will fit perfectly. The same techniques can be used to make a matching pair of thigh high boots suitable for costume wear, using a pair of shoes or low boots as a foundation. I'm sure you can see how gloves, cinches and bras might be created. Take a length of six inch strip door vinyl equal to the total length of the flogger you prefer and using a stripping tool or if you are brave, use shears to create freehand tails to the appropriate length. A slightly irregular edge gives a better look as it's flying, but the keyword is "slightly". Roll it up, see how it looks. Bevel the outside edge of the part of the strip forming the handle on the inner face, so that it creates a smooth seam when rolled up tight. Clamp it with two heavy rubber bands. My choice for finishing the handle is clear packing tape because it maintains the transparency of the toy, but you could finish it in leather strips or whatever. However, you will have to use something to tape it together while you work and I've found clear packing tape has the right degree of stick and flex for the job. The rolled strip provides a comfortable handle with a good "feel" without being floppy.. If you like more heft, well, it's no trick to weight the core. You can get 12 inch strips, but they will produce too thick of a roll for a comfortable grip, so you will have to create the tails alone and mount them onto a handle. The results are worth the effort. The clear vinyl catches light and looks exactly like a cascade of shattered glass descending upon the helpless sub. Despite having what looks like quite sharp edges, it does not easily cut the skin. Best of all, it's quite happy to take a bath in bleach solution. One drawback is a tendency for the tails to stick together with static,
this can be cured with a light coating of good old skin oil. Ze Piece d' Resistance is Useless.
How about 30 or 40 dollars? Here's what you need to create a custom designed harness, either permanent or locking. A fifty foot roll of wire core clothesline. Two boxes of crimpable fasteners. A pair of good pliers. A roll of waterproof electrical tape, or if you feel fancy, the sort of tape that's used for patching garden hoses. Simply treat the wire as you would rope, creating a japanese macramé
harness, remembering that this is a lot less forgiving Instead of knots, you crimp ends together. Where you wish to join
more than two ends, or you wish more flex in the join, Remember to think ahead and create loops over the thighs, behind the back and at the neck to clip cuffs to. voila! It's discreet enough to be worn under clothing, cheap enough that you can weave a full body chastity and say to your cringing sub... lock? What lock? Alas, it doesn't lend itself all that well to cuffs, unless you braid it. I prefer to simply take a length of that clear vinyl, wrap it around a wrist and glue it with Weld-Bond. Make sure you have plenty of overlap. Cut another piece slightly narrower than the cuff with a two measured holes and a slit to allow hasp to be passed through. Glue the whole to the cuff.. The remaining clothesline is ideal for joining wrist and ankle shackles and making tethers. That should keep you busy for a while! |
